South East Biker Motorcycle Forum

Hey Barney, my top tip is do what all the sensible people do....
.....get a nice clean shaft drive!!

I think for peace of mind and your safety you should go for a new chain (and sprockets if they are getting worn) Once you have got corrosion inside the links and rollers it is going to be difficult to clean it out completely and even then you don't know how much damage has been done. Then you always have that doubt in your mind that it is going to seize again when you least expect.

It's life's way of telling you to make sure you lube the new chain more often in future, especially in the winter.

You could try cleaning the chain down with a toothbrush and some parafin, clean it off with a rag and let it dry.

Then try and work in some thin oil(gt85/wd40) to try and loosen up the links and then re-lube with some good chain lube all over.

If you're riding in pouring rain a lot then the chain'll need lubing probably every to every other ride.
Lubing your chain too often is always better than not enough, but cleaning the chain every once in a while helps too.

Ps Shaft drive is a bike with a drive shaft to the back wheel instead of a chain. Very clean and low maintenance. Found on tourers and bmw's

I can tell you are coming under the beguiling spell of shaft drive.... go on, you know you want to!

It happens as you get older (more mature) function becomes more important than fashion and the novelty of cleaning and greasing chains in the depths of winter loses its novelty.

To answer your question though, chains have a number of things going for them. From a function point of view they are relatively light and low friction (if well maintained!). I think I have read that they are the most efficient mechanism in use, ie power out at back wheel sprocket is very close to power in at gearbox sprocket. Those two reasons are why they are the drive of choice for most racing and sports bikes since good old Leonardo put pencil to paper. They are also easy to work with as you can change gearing easily by swapping sprocket sizes (speedway riders carry sets of about twenty sprockets to cover every compromise of acceleration versus top speed whilst maximising traction) The chain is also easy to shorten or lengthen to accomodate these changes and also changes to the wheelbase length for handling. On top of all that they are tolerant of misalignment and relatively cheap to buy initially and replace. Better still if you have a chain sponsor you just throw it away after use and fit a new one. Simples!

Shafts are just about the opposite of all that. Usually heavier and more expensive due to the fine tolerance gears required to reduce the gearing and to turn the drive through one or more right angles between crankshaft and wheel spindle. There is also some form of housing to hold it all together and to contain the lubricating oil. They are less mechanically efficient due to greater friction in all those rubbing surfaces of gears, bearings and seals. So fuel consumption and power output can suffer. Messing around with different gearing and trying to change swing arm lengths is not a two minute job and not recommended for a dusty paddock or muddy field. You can begin to see why shafts lend themselves to tourers and non-sports bikes where things like weight and power are lower priority. The big bonus though is lack of maintenance and the knowledge that in the middle of winter when your mates chain is getting deluged in a chemical grinding paste of cold water, grit and salt your shaft is being cossetted (stay with the plot here boys!) in a warm bath of silky smooth oil. Although they only need the oil level checking occasionally and changing every year or two (less than a litre)if something does go wrong it will probably be expensive.

So as usual, you pays yer money and takes your choice.

There is a third option offered by firms like Scottoiler that promise you the best of both worlds. All the adavantages of a standard chain drive with a bolt on unit that provides metered amounts of lubricating oil directly to the chain links. I have never used them but have heard many ringing endorsements. I have also seen some really ratty installations with units hanging on with tie wraps and gaffa tape and dodgy plumbing pumping surplus oil onto anything in range.

No one said it would be easy. Think of it as the pain that has to be there to balance the pleasure of those days when all is right with world and you are out on your bike.

Barneyboy,
Forget about shaft drive bikes especially BMWs. They can work out much more expensive if you plan to keep the bike beyond 40K miles.
e.g. I have experience of BMW shafts wearing out every 20~25K and at £200 a shot...well, you do the maths. I fitted a Scottoiler to my Tiger from new and I'm only on my second chain and sprocket set at 60000 miles.
The reason most bikes have chains is that they are a far more efficient way of transmitting the power if kept clean and lubricated. It's also lighter and cheaper. It also gives you the opportunity to alter the gearing. e.g. I run a tooth bigger front sprocket on both my bikes which improves mpgs and makes the them feel less frenetic on motorways.
So, buy yourself new chain and sprockets (always replace them together) and a Scottoiler. Then, all you have to remember is to fill up the Scottoiler occasionally.